Every time I return to Taiwan, someone always asks me: “What food do you miss the most?”
I can answer this question in seconds. Instantly, dozens of my favorite Taiwanese dishes flash through my mind — oyster omelet, stir-fried clams with basil, Hakka stir-fry, milkfish ball soup, mullet roe fried rice, shrimp thick soup, 7-Eleven rice balls, Mei & Mei breakfast sandwiches…
But no matter how much I miss these classic street foods, nothing compares to my mother’s home-cooked meals. That, above all else, is the true taste of home.
Food has a special power — just a familiar aroma can guide you back home.
Mom’s Creative Cooking, Rooted in Grandma’s Memories
One of my mother’s signature dishes is her own creation: stir-fried dried tofu with preserved radish and shiitake mushrooms. This dish has been a staple on our dining table since childhood. Not only do my siblings and I love it, but my mother adores it just as much.
I once asked her, “Did you learn this recipe from Grandma?”
She laughed sheepishly and replied, “Of course not! Your grandmother was never good at cooking!” The moment she said it, the whole family burst into laughter.
She then told me that when she was a child, her favorite food was the sticky rice dumplings Grandma made. However, she never liked eating the meat inside. Years later, after getting married and becoming a mother herself, she started experimenting in the kitchen. She transformed her childhood love for the dumpling’s flavors — minus the meat — into this simple yet memory-filled dish.
This dish carries my mother’s essence, and I want to preserve it.
A Family Recipe, As Told by Mom
Ingredients (Serves 5):
- Preserved radish (the star ingredient, use generously): about one bowl (70% full)
- Dried shiitake mushrooms (6–8 pieces): Mom prefers thick, fragrant mushrooms and even buys them from Indigenous farmers deep in the mountains of Taiwan for their purity and rich aroma.
- Black dried tofu: about half a block
- Garlic: one whole bulb
- Dried shrimp: 10–20 pieces
- Black pepper (for added aroma): Regular ground pepper works, but black pepper is more fragrant.
- Lard (or vegetable oil): Mom insists, “Lard makes it more fragrant! If you don’t like it, you can use vegetable oil instead.”
Cooking Steps:
1. Preparing the Preserved Radish
Finely dice the preserved radish and dry-fry it in a pan. Set it aside. Since preserved radish is naturally salty, a white residue of salt may be left in the pan after frying. Be sure to clean the pan before proceeding to prevent unwanted flavors in the next step.
2. Sautéing the Base
Heat oil in the pan and add chopped garlic and dried shrimp, sautéing them until fragrant. Then, add the diced shiitake mushrooms, sprinkle with a little salt, and let their aroma slowly release.
3. Adding Tofu and Preserved Radish
Once the mushrooms become fragrant, add the black dried tofu. Stir-fry until slightly crispy, then add the preserved radish and mix well.
4. Final Seasoning and Finishing Touches
For the finishing touch, you can add a bit of Japanese dried scallop powder or sugar — either works, depending on personal preference. Sprinkle a generous amount of black pepper, then pour a little hot water along the edges of the pan to keep the dish moist. Give it a quick stir, and it’s ready to serve.
Food: A Bridge to Memory and Emotion
For many, food is more than just sustenance — it is a means of connection and sharing. Food allows us to create memories and carry on traditions. Even across different cultures, food has the power to bring people together and convey emotions.
I particularly love a quote from Italian food blogger Flavia Scalzitti. She says:
“When I talk to people about food, I learn not just about ingredients and recipes, but also about traditions, cultural differences, and similarities. I hear stories that offer a glimpse into their lives. And when people ask me about food, I share my own experiences and Italian heritage through my connection with food. Almost always, there is a story behind a dish — and it is these stories that connect us.”
Food is memory, comfort, identity, and the unspoken bond of family. Who doesn’t love a good meal?
If your family has a cherished recipe, consider making it during the holidays. Don’t let these flavors fade with time — make them part of your celebrations and let memories and traditions live on.
If you don’t have a family recipe, that’s okay! Choose a dish you love, something meaningful, and make it your own family tradition. Or explore the signature flavors of your city — you might just find that they have already become part of you.
No matter where you are, as long as you have the familiar taste of home, home will never feel far away.